UPDATE: A REVISED, EASY TO PRINT VERSION OF THIS PATTERN IS AVAILABLE AT THE KNITTING PATTERNS LINK, ABOVE.
Several people have written to ask for the pattern for the teeny Red Sox sock.
It’s pretty much the same as the sock patterns on wiseNeedle. If you’ve done a toe-up sock with a Figure-8 no-sew toe and a short rowed heel, you’ve got it. I don’t want to re-write the entire thing with detailed instructions here. For that you can go to any of the sock patterns on wiseNeedle:
But here’s an abbreviated version. For any how-tos or further details, refer to the comparable section of any of these other sock patterns.
Teeny Red Sox Sock
(c) 2004, Kim Brody Salazar
Permission granted to link to this pattern and make socks for personal
consumption, but not to reproducethepattern or make socks for sale
without the author’s consent
1 card Special Blauband darning yarn, bright red
1 card Special Blauband darning yarn, white
1 set of five double pointed needles in any teeny size you have, preferably #000 or smaller
Gauge: Pretty much unimportant, although the darning yarn looks best at 12 stitches per inch or smaller.
Using the white yarn, work a figure-8 cast on starting with two needles and four loops on each needle. Knit the first row as usual, taking care to untwist the stitches that will be mounted wrong on one of your needles.
Toe and Foot:
Row 1: k1, M1, k1. Using another dpn, k1, M1, k1. Using a third dpn, k1, M1, K1. Using the fourth dpn – K1, M1, K1. You should now have 4 live needles in your work, each with3 stitches on it.
Row 2: Knit all stitches.
Row 3: *k1, M1, k2. K2, M1, K1* repeat. Each needle should now have four stitches on it. Your toe is done.
Row 4: Switch to red and continue knitting until sock measures approximately 3/4 of an inch measured from the tip of the toe.
Determine where the bottom of your foot will be. With white yarn, work the following on the two needles that hold the stitches for the bottom of the foot. Think of the two needles that hold those stitches as being one unit:
Row 1 of decrease: K7, yf, slip next stitch purlwise onto right needle. Turn work.
Row 2: Yf (wrapping the yarn around the slipped stitch that was just slipped and return it to the right hand needle – it should look like it has been lassoed by a noose), p6, slip the next stitch purlwise (keeping the yarn in front of the work). Turn work.
Row 3: Yf (wrapping the yarn around the stitch you just slipped and returning it to the right hand needle), K5, yf, slip the next stitch knitwise onto the right needle. Turn work.
Row 4: Yf (wrapping the yarn around the stitch you just slipped and returning it to the right hand needle), p4, slip the next stitch purlwise (keeping the yarn in front of the work). Turn work.
Row5 (first increase row:) K4, knit the next stitch through the back along with the wrapped loop around its base. (I do this by picking up the loop on the point of my right hand needle, then knitting the loop and the stitch together), yf, slip next stitch knitwise onto the right needle. Turn work.
Row 6: Yf, (wrapping the yarn around the slipped stitch so that there are now TWO wraps at its base and returning it to the other needle), p5, purl the next stitch along with the loop wrapped around its base, slip next stitch purlwise (keeping the yarn in the front of the work). Turn work.
Row 7: Yf (wrapping the yarn around the base of the slipped stitch and returning it to the other needle), k6, knit the next stitch through the back of the loop along with the two loops wrapped around its base, yf, slip next stitch knitwise onto right needle, DO NOT TURN WORK.
Ankle and Ribbing:
Switch back to red, and continue knitting entirely around the ankle of the sock. On the first row of the ankle when you get around to the white stitch at the right hand edge of the heel, knit it along with the wraps around its base. Continue to work in stockinette until it is approximately 3/4 of an inch measured from the top of the heel
Ribbing Row 1: *K1 red, K1 white* repeat
Ribbing Row 2 and 3: *K1 red, P1 white* repeat
Bind off all stitches using red. Darn in ends.