Most of you who visit String are probably here just for the Kureopatora Snake Scarf. I’m surprised at how popular that pattern has been, and its popularity keeps growing. I’ve seen postings from folk all over the world who have made it, with knitters in Japan taking it up first.
Now comes an additional bit of cleverness. Jill from Michigan made several Snakes, and then seamed them together to make a throw. She used Kaleidoscope 100%wool, and calls this her Hummingbird Wrap. Here’s her picture of it, reproduced with her permission:
I hadn’t thought of doing that, and it’s a great idea!
If you ever knit something from one of my patterns please feel free to send me a snapshot. Since I do this for knit-love not knit-money, seeing what my pattern-children are up to out in the real world is my main payback. And if you give permission, I’ll post it here to the gallery. Thanks, Jill for this bit of inspired happiness!
Working through some quick holiday presents, over the past week (and in spite of deadlines) I managed to do up a Kureopatora’s Snake scarf. I used some Southwest Trading Company Karaoke, a 50% soy silk. 50% wool thin/thick single, with equivocal results.
To start with, I bought the Karaoke with this scarf in mind. I picked up just two skeins of it on a lark, in a now defunct yarn shop I visited during a business trip to Savannah, Georgia. I was rushed and didn’t have much time to play. My magpie self was attracted to the jewel like colors and the promise of exceptionally long repeats. I selected two skeins of the same color number and dyelot that looked to have the same colors on the outside, with the hope that they would be more or less symmetrical in their color progression. By the label, two skeins together were about 220 yards – short yardage for this project as written, but I decided that if I made a narrow Snake over 22 instead of 30 stitches, I’d have enough.
The yarn in the first skein was quite thick, with very few thin sections. The twist was uneven, with some heavily twisted thick bits, and some parts that were almost like untwisted roving. There were clot like “fluffs” of extraneous fiber stuck to the main strand that I picked off as I was working. Skein #1 began and ended with dark blue. I knit away, starting from the center of the skein. Repeats were exceptionally long. The entire skein seemed to encompass only one (the two yellow areas are markedly different). Starting at the photo’s left, I got to the scarf’s dark blue center section before I ran out of yarn.
Because I had two highly similar skeins and the repeat was so long I decided to try to play with color placement. I began using the second skein – also showing blue on its exterior – starting from the outside in. This yarn being 50% wool spit splices nicely, so I melded my trailing blue end onto the same color blue from the outside of the second skein and kept going.
Now is when the equivocal part kicks in. While the color matched nicely, the second skein was unlike the first in thickness, with extremely overtwisted thin sections making up the bulk of the thing, studded with lots of those fluffy fiber clots. The difference between the two balls is noticeable when knit, although I didn’t notice it in the skein. If you compare the left leg in the photo (knit with the thicker yarn) and the right leg (knit with the thinner second skein) you can see the difference in achieved width. The drape is quite different, too, with the left side being thick and plush, and the right side being skimpy by comparison.
Finally, while it didn’t matter much for this project, the total yardage for the two skeins was wildly different. I knit every inch of skein #1. I had about a quarter of skein #2 left over when I reached the comparable color point on my second leg and decided to end off.
So I now have a pretty and color-balanced rainbow Snake Scarf, that looks much better than it drapes. Plus a caution for anyone buying this yarn who expects to make something larger than a hat or pair of mitts from it. Printed yardage and gauge are both VERY unreliable. Buy one extra skein for every three you estimate that you need, just in case you end up with short yardage (though full weight) fat-yarn skeins. And if you want to use this for small projects, be advised that depending on the thickness in your skeins, you could be working this at anything from DK to bulky weight gauge. Also be advised that although soft, this yarn catches easily on everything, even dry skin, and on the highly saturated #298 colors will run when washed (based on the blue shedding when handled with damp hands). Final verdict – I wouldn’t use it again without specific reason, and if I had reason, would only buy this in person, and only after close inspection for uniformity.
Oh. How to make a wider or narrower Snake? Easy. Start the project as written. Continue the initial increase section until you have achieved an even number of stitches and your piece is the width you want. Work the trumpet like sections in the same method as written. Work the final section like the others until you have HALF of the stitches on each needle. On the next right side row (the one that commences at the left edge where you increased on previous rows) begin with a SSK instead of the increase. Continue until you have three stitches remaining on your needle. On the last row, SSSk all three of those stitches together.
The Kureopatora scarf I noodled up last winter appears to have taken on a life of its own. It gathered a small bit of interest here in the US around the time I posted the pattern, but no big splash. Then over the summer and fall knitters in Japan found the thing and made it a real knit-fad. A rainbow of finished snakes began crawling through blogs over there. The range of different Noro-type long repeat dyed yarns there is spectacular, and I’ve been delighted to see the color and texture ranges people have used to make their own snake scarves. Now the pattern appears to have been discovered in Germany and the Netherlands. Blogs and discussion boards there are beginning to post pix of finished pieces, and I’m getting lots of referral hits from them.
If you’ve discovered this blog by looking for the Kureopatora’s Snake scarf pattern, welcome! I’m having lots of fun via this vicarious visiting. For the record, the top non-US, non-spider sources of wiseNeedle visitors Canada, China, the UK, Germany, France, Japan, the Ukraine, Spain, Australia, the Netherlands, Finland and Sweden. Many of those visitors are hopping over to the International Glossary of Knitting Terms. Others come mostly for the yarn reviews and patterns both here on the blog and on wiseNeedle proper. Predictably, non-US visitors to the String or Nothing blog site are predominantly from English as a first language countries, although Japan, France, and Germany are also well represented. For the record, my own blog reading travels often find me on French, German and Japanese pages. I can eke out meaning from written French, but to read other two I have to rely on machine translation, which can be almost as incomprehensible to me as the original.
Ribbed Leaf Pullover
I’m up to the collar of my pullover. I feel rather foolish because last night I missed an excellent opportunity for a photo-illustrated blog piece – neatly picking up stitches around a neck edge. In this case, I followed the stitch count suggestions of the pattern exactly, even though the total count looked a bit low. But I ended up being quite pleased with the result. The neck area on this sweater is a bit large, and needs to be pulled in by the deep ribbing around the collar. While I might rip back, reducing the three rows of purl welting to only two, I like the way the collar is shaping up. This shot is also the best I’ve taken so far of the all-over texture.
My guess is that if deadlines and after-hours assignments allow, I’ll finish up the collar tonight. I’d like to do a tubular cast-off to match my tubular cast-on edges, but I haven’t found one yet that I really like. That should lead to lots of fiddling around and possibly even some interesting blog fodder for a change.
While I’m still under deadline pressure here and have not gotten to the Spanish Hat, I do have some knitting-related musings to report today.
The first is sock yarn wear. I have knit pretty much the same sock in terms of fit since shortly after I began knitting socks. This is especially true for socks knit with sock yarn or fingering weight yarn. I’ve also stuck to a group of sock yarns that are a mix of washable wool and nylon – the standards, Fortissima, Socka, Regia, and Melienweit – all major labels and not house brands or knockoffs. And I’ve not changed the way I care for them. I still do the soak, spin, air dry thing rather than subjecting them to more stressful full machine washing. AND I am always knitting more, increasing the numbers of pairs I own, so that individual pairs are worn less frequently.
So why then are my socks wearing out faster?
This is a big mystery to me. I have several pairs of Fortissima and Socka socks that are pushing their 10th birthday, and were among the first I knit. They’re fine. A bit floppy, but not significantly abraded or worn through. I have other socks knit in the past year that are already showing holes at the ball of the foot.
There doesn’t seem to be any correlation between yarn maker and sock failure. Nor does the failure seem to be related to gauge, since all the victims were knit on the same size needles.
So. Is anyone else experiencing this? Or is it just me…
The second is a product of the need to do mindless knitting. I started another Snake Scarf, knit from an extravagance – Schaefer Yarn’s Helene. This yarn is next-to-skin soft, with all the luster of silk. It is however an Aran weight/light bulky weight single, and like all singles spun from soft yarns, has a tendency to split. I suspect that it will also catch a bit. But it’s lovely stuff, and giving the scarf away will be difficult to do. I can’t identify the exact Schaefer color combo my Helene is (I bought it over a year ago and lost the tag), but it’s mostly navy and raspberry, with hints of brown. The color repeat is however quite short, and does not produce the eye popping striped effect of longer color run yarns. (I’ll be posting a yarn review of the stuff soon).
Still, the subtle mottled effect doesn’t fight too badly with the scarf’s basic wiggly shape or stitch direction, so I’m pleased. On another note, I see that my original write-up of the snake scarf’s beginning is flawed. I’ll be correcting it later this week from my new working notes. Apologies to everyone who has been challenged by it. On the bright side, I only got one note from a confused knitter. The thing is so dead-simple that most people appear to have taken the error in stride and weren’t tripped up by it.
Well, I wish I had had more time to knit last week. Swamped as I was with a special crisis assignment, many things fell (again) by the wayside. Knitting was one of them.
Still in what little time I had I did find out that I had comitted two of knitting’s cardinal sins:
- I didn’t take enough time to gauge properly, relying instead on the hubris of previous experience, and some inconsistent partial counts.
- When I cast on and then joined my piece together to knit in the round, I introduced a half twist.
So what I ended up with was a piece that was both way too big and being twisted – unusuable. So I ripped back. It just goes to show that no matter how many times you do something, and how well you think you know it, every new venture is another opportunity to make the same old misakes.
In the mean time, here’s a photo of the yet-again cast on and two rows knit new start.
Yes I know it’s blurry, but you can begin to see the colors build. As I suspected, the larger teal areas are lining up nicely, with the browns and greens somewhat less regimented between them. A better photo of a bigger slice tomorrow. Unless of course I’ve managed to twist the miserable thing again and will need to begin all over.
Looking over the logs for last week I was amazed to see the traffic here spike up to almost three times the expected number of visitors. There don’t appear to be many new referral entries, nor can I think of any ready explanation aside from a growing fascination with the Kureopatora Snake scarf pattern. A couple of scarf exchanges seem to have picked it up as an item of interest. My own experimentation and that of the other knitters suggest that there are lots of yarns that work well with the basic idea – the main difference among them being to vary the number of stitches across, depending on the chosen yarn’s gauge and repeat length. You can make the thing out of any yarn from fingering/sock self-stripers all the way up to bulky weights (superbulkies might be a bit too thick for comfortable wear as a scarf, but that’s a matter of personal preference – not a limitation of the pattern itself.) Of course, it’s obvious that yarns heavier than DK will require fewer stitches, and lighter ones will need more. For me in this pattern, I get the best results using an even number of stitches, but that’s a mnemonic, not a hard and fast rule. If you can keep the K1, P1 rib working off an odd number stitch base, go ahead and use it.
My snake is fun in any yarn, even a solid color, but it become ssomething special in a long-repeat varieggated. My hard-to-find, discontinued Kureopatora DK weight works for the pattern, as do other long-repeat Noro yarns like Silk Garden, and Kureyon. I’d recommend reducing the number of stitches across in both. I find that for them, the 30 stitches I used for Kureopatora is too many. For example, my Kureyon scarves, were done on 26 stitches across. I’ve also heard that Daikeito Diamusee also would be a good candidate, although there don’t seem to be any local distributors of the stuff and I haven’t seen it myself. Other possibilities include Regia 6 Ply Crazy Colors, Lana Grossa Dasolo Stripes, Katia Mexico, Euro Mexican Wave, some of the long repeat as opposed to tweedy colors of Encore Colorspun in any of its weights (an economical choice); or for those with bigger budgets than I – Classic Elite Embrace. I am sure there are more.
Where have I been? Working. There are some times in a proposal writer’s life when the project at hand grows to the point of devouring all other life. I’m writing from mid-peristalis right now, deep in the belly of the beast. My house is a shambles, and it is only through the cooperation and understanding of my family that any shred of normalcy remains. Side entertainments like blogging are out of the question right now.
Through it all though when I do get to sit down for a minute I’ve been stress-taming with trivial knitting. No projects worth a darn, but calming none the less.
Mostly I’ve been playing with odds and ends from my stash. For example, to answer some questions about other yarns suitable for the Kureopatora’s Snake Scarf, I’ve been playing with Noro Kureyon.
Apologies for the dark photo, again I just don’t have time to tend to details properly. As you can see, the long color repeat of the Kureyon worked nicely for this project, with single color slices lasting almost the entire duration of each segment. The upper scarf with orange on it was knit exactly according to the pattern I posted here – on a US #6, 30 stitches across at the widest point. The lower scarf in browns and grays was knit on a US #7, 28 stitches across at the widest point but otherwise following the logic of the posted pattern exactly. Each scarf took two skeins of Kureyon.
You’ll notice that in spite of the 28-stitcher having in fact fewer stitches across, it’s a tad wider. That half inch of difference is entirely due to the different gauge produced by the larger needle. Surprisingly, the 28-stitch scarf is also about seven inches longer than the one knit on the smaller needle.
In terms of drape, they are pretty close. One would think the scarf knit on the US #6 would be stiffer and denser than the one knit on the US #7, but in fact there is very little defference between them. BOTH are relatively un-supple compared to the Kureopatora original, but that is more a function of the difference between the two yarns rather than a difference among needle sizes. The heavier and less uniform yarn also had an impact on the amount of "wiggle" right and left in my snakes. The deformation that makes the snakey shape is less evident in this yarn than in the original, and is the same for both size needles used. Given the small differences between the two needle sizes and the extra width/length gained by using the larger needle, I’d recommend the #7 and the 28-stitch width for anyone looking to do a Kureopatora’s Snake scarf from Kureyon.
Now, how did I like working with the Kureyon? Not especially. In spite of hype, this is the first time I’ve used it. I accept the thick/thin variation and differences between skeins as being part of the yarn’s unique look. I am less happy with uneven spinning, with some parts so overtwisted that they kink almost uncontrollably, and others so untwisted that they shred into breaking from just the normal action of knitting. I’m also not fond of the fine grained agricultural dust that I feel between my fingers as I knit (very present in the orange/green scarf) and the abundance of sharp, thorn-like chaff in all four skeins used. I was also not pleased that one of my skeins had six knots in it (each skein had at least one). Finally, I find the texture of this yarn is too harsh for next to skin wear. My scarves are interesting, but are clearly "outside the coat" articles, and not something I’d be comfortable pulling up around my chin muffler style.
And in part to answer the folk who have asked about using yarns with shorter repeats for this pattern, I present the following eyesore, knit for edification only, and shortly to be ripped back:
This particular yarn is a Red Heart acrylic "worsted" in pinks, white, pale blue and gray, picked out for her own projects by Younger Daughter. Because this yarn like so many mass market acrylics is actually a 16st = 4 inch yarn and not a 20st=4 inch actual worsted, I’m using a US #9 here, and working on 28 stitches across.
There’s nothing wrong with knitting Red Heart – it’s a very serviceable and inexpensive yarn. Like any cost/value trade, it has performance and aesthetic strengths and weaknesses. It’s not particularly soft, although it is more wearable than the Kureyon. It feels squeaky on the needles. I don’t like the color set used, but that’s a personal preference item.
But what makes this horrific isn’t the quality or price of the yarn, it’s the length of the color repeat. As you can see from the exposed length, color segments last about 8 inches or so before shading into the next one. Stripes are choppy and colors pool at the edges, giving it a very haphazard and to me overall unattractive look. For this pattern to show best you need one of two things – a solid color, so that the interest comes from the movement of the ribbing segments and the way they deform, or a variegated yarn in which the color segments run for at least a yard before changing.
UPDATE: THE KUREOPATORA SCARF PATTERN IS NOW AVAILABLE AS AN EASY TO DOWNLOAD AND PRINT PDF FILE AT THE KNITTING PATTERNS BUTTON LINK ABOVE.
I’ve finished my Snake Scarf. It’s about 58″ long, which works. I’ve used all but about four yards of my fancy yarn. The jury is still out on the edging thing. Perhaps something very narrow in black just to give it a contained, outlined look. Perhaps not. Lots depends on whether I have time to hit my LYS, as there’s nothing suitable in stash. Or I may just leave it as it is.
I played a long time with the final section, trying out several ways to do it that preserve the look of the ribbed sections that went before, because the usual way of ending off an Entrelac section lost the directionality of the ribbing. My corners don’t exactly match, but that’s because the entire piece has a definite beginning and end. If you were to work this idea like a seaman’s scarf, with a center third of plain ribbing, and both ends worked out from that ribbing, they would match exactly. Perhaps that’s the next step, provided I find a suitable yarn in a color set I like.
I make no claim as to inventing this concept. Entrelac is pretty standard. I’ve seen recipes for it going back to instructions for sock tops printed in the 1890s or so. Nor is doing it in a narrow strip unique. Quick searches on the Web will surface lots of other people’s experiments with directional knitting and narrow scarves. And I certainly can’t lay any claims to ribbing, or to using long repeat multicolor yarns in a narrow scarf. However, I can claim the serendipty that happened when I played with all of these concepts together. The trumpet like manner in which the ribbing spreads and curves is (to me at least) both amusing and graceful, and presents a different effect than working this idea in garter or stockinette stitch. I did work out the ribbed treatment for the final end, and have provided my own graph for it.
As far as using this with other yarns since the Kureopatora is now long gone – I suspect that Noro Silk Garden or Kureyon would work nicely, as would some of the Daikeito yarns that are
beginning to show up here in the US. (I haven’t seen the latter in person, but I’ve read reports of them on the Web.) What you want is a yarn in which each individual color lasts for about a yard (or more) before shading into the next one. The glorious hand-painted yarns that are hank-dyed in skeins that are about a yard around would NOT produce this wide stripe effect. They’d be lovely, but the color sections would not be long enough to make dramatic stripes like Kureopatora’s.
Just to annoy the natural-fiber-only crowd, I do observe that the yarn for this project needn’t be a top-drawer luxury product. There are some very inexpensive acrylics that have exceptionally long color repeats. I’m not fond of working with them in general, but if you’re thinking of knitting a rugged scarf for a little kid, those yarns might be worth considering.
KUREOPATORA’S SNAKE – A KNITTING PATTERN
- US #6 needles
for this project, taken over 1×1 ribbing, at the midpoint of a section
where it isn’t particularly stretched out: approximately 6 stitches (3
ribs) per inch
- 30 stitches at widest point
- Width of scarf: about 4.25 inches. Length of scarf: about 58 inches.
yarn consumption for this size: About 250 yards of a multicolor worsted
weight yarn that normally knits in stockinette at 5 stitches per inch.
for working method, this scarf is done in a pretty standard Entrelac
edge column technique – think Entrelac project reduced to just the right
and left most columns, without the basket weave effect sections
Row 1: Cast on 1 stitch, knit in the front, then purl in the back of this stitch [2 stitches on needle]
Row 2: Knit in the front, then purl in the back of the first stitch, K1 [3 st on needle]
Row 3: Purl in the front, then knit in the back of the first stitch, P1, K1 [4 stitches on needle]
Row 4: Purl in the front, then knit in the back of the first stitch, P1, K1, P1 [5 stitches on needle]
Row 5: Knit in the front, then purl in the back of the first stitch, finish row in established K1, P1 ribbing [6 st on needle]
Row 6: Knit in the front, then purl in the back of the first stitch, finish row in established K1, P1 ribbing [7 st on needle]
Row 7: Purl in the front, then knit in the back of the first stitch, finish row in established P1, K1 ribbing [8 st on needle]
Row 8: Purl in the front, then knit in the back of the first stitch, finish row in established P1, K1 ribbing [9 st on needle]
rows 5-8, adding one stitch in each row but doing it to maintain the
K1, P1 rib pattern. Keep doing this until you have 30 stitches on your
Entrelac body section:
Row 1: Knit in the front, then
purl in the back of the first stitch, SSK. Turn work over so the next
row heads back in the other direction. Note that this first row is only
3 stitches long.
Row 2 and all subsequent even numbered rows: Work P1, K1 ribbing as established.
3: Purl in the front, then knit in the back of the first stitch, P1,
SSK. Note that from now on this row-ending SSK will be composed of one
stitch worked on the previous row, plus one stitch from the dormant
stitches on the left hand needle. Turn work over so the next row heads
back in the other direction. You now have 4 stitches in the row.
5: Knit in the front, then purl in the back of the first stitch, K1,
P1, SSK. Turn work. You now have 5 stitches in the row.
Row 7: Purl
in the front, then knit in the back of the first stitch, P1, K1, P1,
SSK. Turn work. You will now have 6 stitches in the row.
to work in the manner of rows 5-8, adding one stitch at the edge of
each right-side row in the established rib pattern until you have
incorporated all of the dormant stitches on the left hand needle. You
will again have 30 stitches on the needle. At this point your segment
is done. To do the next one, flip the work over (the and begin again
from Row 1 of the Entrelac section). Continue adding entire trumpet
shaped sections until your scarf is of sufficient length. (Mine maxed
out at about 58″).
Rows 1-25 – work as for
a standard Entrelac section. At the completion of Row 25 you should
have fifteen active stitches on your right hand needle. The left hand
needle should hold the other fifteen stitches. Work Row 26 as usual
(marked in blue on accompanying chart).
Row 27 and all
subsequent odd numbered rows: SSK, work in established ribbing, ending
row with SSK and turn in the same manner as in the Entrelac section.
Rows 28 and all subsequent even numbered rows: Work P1, K1 ribbing as established.
Continue in this manner until you have completed Row 50, and three stitches remain on your needle.
51: Slip, slip, slip, knit all three stitches together through the back
of the loop (this is a three-stitch variant of the standard two stitch
Darn in all ends.
In answer to so many questions – yes, I did finish the halfie mittens I showed last week:
for darning in the ends, that is. You’ll note that the thumbs are on
the same side in the picture above. That’s because I’m trying to show
the palm (stockinette) and the back of the hand (textured) of the pair.
A little ending off, and they’re ready to go into my hamper of
potential holiday gifts. Or if it gets cold here before I get around to
distribution, being pressed into immediate service.
My snake scarf continues to grow:
just at the point of Scarf Length Viability, but not really long enough
yet As you can see I’m just about done with my first full ball of yarn.
That leaves just one. I don’t think I’ll be able to save out my second
for edging. It’s going to get consumed just doing scarf body. Some have
pointed out that I really don’t need edging, but I haven’t abandoned
the idea. Getting more of this yarn is of course impossible, but
perhaps something in black.
As soon as I end off the top end, I’ll write up a how-to on this one.
Yesterday’s entry on the KFI/Noro Kureopatora Plus
provoked much curiosity about that yarn. What I have is left over from
my Taco Coat. I bought a bag of about 12 balls at a seasonal clearance
sale at my local yarn shop back in 1996. It sat for a half year waiting
for a project idea to ripen. It ended up being the color accent in my
original Taco Coat. The other two yarns used on this project were Cascade Lana d’Oro alpaca blend in black, and Reynolds Tolouse, an ancient black Astrakan textured yarn.
used about 9.5 balls of my original 12 Kureopatoras. The 2.5 shown
yesterday are all that remain. I don’t remember the yarn as being
particularly cursed with knots. Maybe one or two balls had a knot in
the whole lot, and no ball had more than one. I do know that at the
time it was available in a couple of color sets, with the one I used
being the most eye-popping. Two others I remember were mixed browns,
khakis and olives; and another that was a set of various blues.
question was on softness and full/felt-ability. Having now tried it, I
can say that there’s enough wool content in this wool/cotton blend to
spit splice. It is possible that it would full. Experimentation would
be called for, although with limited availability I’d prefer not to
spend my yardage doing so. Also, while it is less scratchy than
Kureyon, it’s not Merino soft – not by a long shot. This is an outside
the coat scarf, not something most people would snuggle up next to
under their chin.
All in all, Kureopatora Plus was ahead of its
time. It was sold under the KFI (Knitting Fever) label, not the Noro
brand. It came out well in advance of similar yarns today, with very
little exposure or pattern support compared to its later siblings Silk
Garden or Kureyon. In fact at the time people were rather mystified
about how to use it, and appreciation was limited. As a result it got
added to many people’s stashes but wasn’t knit up. You can still find
it stash aged Kureopatora every now and again on eBay, although I have
to say I rarely see any in the color #982 screaming rainbow mix I’m
Progress on the snake-like scarf:
does a bit of the side to side salsa slide than do most other scarves
of this type. The biggest reason for this is my working this up in
ribbing rather than the more usual garter or stockinette stitches.
Ribbing draws in. You can see how it fans out like a lotus flower where
the entrelac attachment "seams" stretch it. I like the effect.
is still out on whether or not I’ll end up edging this piece. If I do
it will be in a very narrow sawtooth or point edging – small enough
that the colors of the edging will change every point or two. In terms
of yarn consumption so far, I’ve finished the third to half ball I had
left over, and I’ve cracked into the first of my two untouched
Kureopatoras. We’ll see how long the scarf is after I’ve finished most
of that ball. If it’s long enough, I’ll do the edging with the remains
of it plus Ball #2. If not – someone is bound to appreciate a Dr. Who
length rainbow squiggle.